New Hampshire to London Part 2

The facade of St. Paul's Cathedral, an architectural marvel by Sir Christopher Wren.

Day 2 in London - Today I set out on my own!  Can’t wait to stroll the banks of the river and finally find my way to the Tate Modern!  I wake and look out the window to see fog.  And rain. And absolutely nothing else.  Yikes.   Oh well, I will figure it out.  

Bob is ordering lattes and orange juice and asks me if I would like anything else, so I tell him to add a pastry basket.  I lay in bed until I hear room service arrive and leave, don my robe and go into the sitting area.  There sits a lovely tray of lattes, orange juice, and three brown orbs in a bowl.  “Energy balls” he tells me.  Ground nuts, seeds, coconut and cocoa powder.  I take a bite.  It ain’t no croissant.  He will pay for this.  I keep my mouth shut.  They are not delicious and I notice he is not eating them either.

After writing about our day one travels it is time to get ready to head out on my great adventure.  I decide to walk despite the weather.  My coat has a hood and there is an umbrella in the closet.  Let’s do this, even though my hair is gonna curl and probably frizz.  First world problems, I know.

I have mentioned my poor sense of direction before, so I check with the doorman before I embark.  I simply go where we went last night but don’t take the bridge across the river.  Go North towards the London Eye. Easy peasy.  On my way I stop to fumble for something in my purse and see this small tile.  I obviously did not press the button as I am still here.

Oh look, a coffee shop!  London Grind.  Let’s get a coffee for the stroll.  This place is cool, I like it.  Time to head out.  I go the wrong way and turn around which works out because I left the umbrella at the coffee shop.  Once retrieved, I head in the proper direction looking for the path along the river.

I find the stairs down towards the river bank and it is very inviting.  There is an outdoor restaurant at the base of the stairs. And another.  And another.  What is going on here?  I venture forth and it opens up into a full blown outdoor market sheltered by the road above.  Cheese stands, butcher shops, prepared food from all ethnicities, mulled wine, beer, etc.  It is the Borough Market and it is blowing my mind.  Where has this been all my life?  I had to throw away my latte as I needed two hands to photograph it!  The smells!  The sights!  The sounds!  Oh my!  A hungry person could spend all day here!  But I don’t have all day, I need to get to the Tate.  So I eventually continue along the Thames.  But here is a little photo montage for you.  Click the right edge of the image to toggle through.

Apparently I am on Bankside.  More cute little restaurants, the pedestrian bridge which seems to go right to St. Paul’s, and then what’s this?  Just Shakespeare’s Globe Theater!  Tours and shows available but not today.  Gotta get to the Tate.  Modern art and Modigliani exhibits to see!   But first a quick stop at the museum restaurant.  Celeriac soup with chestnuts and pear, bread and wine.  Now for art.

The Globe Theater, home of the "Bard of Avon", William Shakespeare.  It is actually a reconstruction of the original theater, which was built in 1599.

The Modigliani exhibit does not allow photography, but early works are definitely portraiture, men and women, in a slightly impressionistic style.  He had a brief sculptor phase, then female nudes.  Colors progress from darker to light.  Interesting faces, not realism by any stretch, not a lot of depth but interesting and prolific.  Afterwards, I perused the general exhibits - just scratched the surface but their permanent collection is vast and varied.  Here is a sample.

Works from the permanent collection at the Tate Modern, London.

Now time for St. Paul’s.  I stop for a glass of wine at Swan Restaurant at the Shakespeare Globe and attempt to buy my ticket for St. Paul’s online but after many attempts, the transaction is repeatedly declined.  Grrrr.  Gonna finish up and walk over there.  No fast track for me.  I try one more time and then I see it - tickets must be purchased one day in advance.  What??  I wonder if this is just online or in person too?  So I ask the waiter (who is very personable, by the way.).  He thinks I’ll be ok so I will take his word for it. I head out and he comes chasing me. I forgot my umbrella.  Again.  It won’t be the last time, I am sure. Off again. P.S. I like him.  He calls me “Lovely” in a British accent.

Crossing the London Millennium Bridge over the river Thames towards St. Paul's Cathedral.

The rain picks up for a bit so having my umbrella is something I am grateful for!  It dies down just as quickly and I get to St. Paul’s in no time.  There is no photography so I will do my best to explain.  You enter and walk down the main aisle.  There are stations where you can light a votive candle for 30 pence but I don’t have a pence or even know what a pence is so I will skip.  Organ music swells and wanes.  The architecture is symmetrical and grand.  I look up and can't stop looking up.  Frescoes and domes, domes with frescoes.  Behind the altar is choir seating and more beautiful ceiling art.  I’ll pull some pics from the web for you.  I decide to sit and drink it in for a bit.  I get up and almost lose my umbrella for the third time, but I remember to grab it at the last minute.

Web images of St. Paul's Cathedral interior.

All kinds of statuary honoring military types.  Apparently God is a big fan of the military.  Gilded ironwork and the ceiling art leaves me speechless.  Not really but it is a church and I am by myself, so I'm not gonna just babble.

I see a sign to the dome and Whispering Gallery so I decide to go up.  It is a broad spiral staircase and after what seems to be 97 revolutions I reach the top.  You pass through a small hallway and up another flight of stairs and you reach the dome, with a gilded railing all around as well as concrete seating, which is awesome, because I am dizzy and have a healthy fear of heights.  I sit for a bit, catch my breath and drink in the amazing view.  There are two more levels, but it is time for me to head back down.

Headed towards the exit, you pass the tombs of Sir Christopher Wren, the Duke of Wellington and Admiral Lord Nelson.  Cool.  Pass through more crypts and the gift shop to exit.  Time to get back to hotel. Taxi, please!!

Once back at the hotel I am hungry so I stop at the 52nd floor for a snack, then afterwards go to scope out the Sky Pool on the same floor.  The waiter runs after me as I forgot my umbrella again.  If you are counting this is three times with a near miss.  I can’t wait to ditch this thing.  Here is a picture of the pool.  This place is sick.

The Sky Pool on the 52nd floor of the Hotel Shangri-la, London.

Now back to room to prepare for dinner.   My hair is frantic, but I can fix that.  It is a business dinner with an advertising agency and I am along for the ride.  I will do my best to stay quiet.  "Be at the Bleeding Heart Restaurant at 6:45", he texts me.  Piece of cake.  At least I hope there is a piece of cake!!  There is better than cake.  I would call the food "upscale French country".  French food but hearty portions.  I have a roasted beet salad and suckling pig with crackling and a heavenly sauce (it is French food, sauce is king!).  And Bordeaux. For dessert a lovely creme brûlée and a glass of sauterne to pair.

A three-course meal at the Bleeding Heart Restaurant in London, one of it's oldest and finest.  

Now back to the hotel and to bed.  Tomorrow I have London until 1:00pm, then into a car to drive through the English countryside to the sea.  Christchurch, here I come.